Restaurant Review: Terra

Terra incognito

By: Susan Meadows
Published online: Friday, November 30, 2012
Appeared in: Pasateimpo

Last June, the luxury boutique Auberge Resorts quietly relinquished Encantado resort. It’s now Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe — a mouthful that references the historic Rancho Encantado, though only the stunning location is recognizable to those who knew it. Furthermore, Charles Dale, the executive chef of Encantado’s restaurant Terra when it garnered a AAA Four Diamond rating, didn’t stay long after the transition, and rumor has it he will open his own restaurant where owner-chef Brian Knox’s now-closed Aqua Santa used to be, though that purchase has not been officially announced. When Terra was under Dale’s supervision I filed it under “flawless,” for flavor, presentation, execution, and the little flourishes that elevated it beyond most other fine Santa Fe restaurants. Chef Andrew Cooper, who transferred in September from a Four Seasons resort in Hawaii to head the kitchen at Terra, has inherited a rather large toque.

The Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts website names no chefs at any of its properties, giving the impression that they change frequently or are considered inter- changeable. Previous experience with hotel kitchens having a revolving staff door caused my expectations to be lowered before I even tasted a morsel.

I wasn’t terribly surprised when our first courses arrived looking ready for a photo shoot but proved the adage about appearances being deceiving. Chewy baby octopus, though cute, offered no flavor, while accompanying roasted peppers tasted only of salt. The dish was nearly saved by the patatas bravas — here really mashed-potato croquettes that were perfectly crunchy on the outside and boasted a tasty little ham surprise in the unfortunately goopy center. The accompanying brava sauce lacked garlic; the romesco sauce, though tastier, also played it safe. Crab cakes, crisp on the outside and moist in the center, also suffered from blandness. I resorted to the still-superior breadbasket selection, which includes crisp, spicy lavash and excellent biscuits and butter.

Fresh salads with perfect greens saved greenbacks and proved better choices on a different evening. The small Caesar came with tasty white anchovies, shavings of Parmesan, and a flavorful dressing. An off-menu green salad comprised a good mix of young organic greens.

Pumpkin mole with a flavor profile more like East Indian curry than a traditional Mexican dish complemented a generous serving of crisp-skinned roast duck. The accompanying “Aztec rice” — wild and conventional rice with chopped vegetables — suffered from the same problem as some first courses: no distinguishing flavor. The braised short ribs, a Terra specialty during Dale’s tenure, came closer to former standards. The tender, flavorful meat was served with good macaroni and cheese, though the “whiskey barbecue sauce” failed to suggest much of anything. Four grand, meaty diver scallops bathed in foaming butter atop an excellent risotto cooked in the Italian style and boosted by salty bits of chorizo and sweet corn won me over, however. This dish and a generous serving of halibut with ham and creamy polenta made me consider that perhaps Cooper simply needs a bit more time in Terra’s kitchen to reach his stride.

A signature sundae priced in two figures shocked me: limp and tepid churros supported two tiny balls of dulce de leche ice cream, all finished with a drizzle of caramel sauce so scant it made me wonder if the kitchen was running out of it. A dense chocolate cake served with lime sorbet was more aligned with the price and my expectations.

A taste of the Chianti offered by the glass convinced me to order the Chianti only available by the bottle; the latter thankfully showed character, but it also made me wonder why the former appeared on the list at all. A Coteaux d’Aix rosé demonstrated less minerality than I am accustomed to in this appellation.

Servings seem more generous at the new Terra, but there’s less flourish, surprise, and precision. As time goes by, Cooper seems to be reaching terra firma, but the heights of the past don’t seem to be his goal. Still, the spectacular sunset views from window tables and the terrace, a refined ambience with a contemporary industrial feel, and the excellent service are all good reasons to go.